Giovanni Laterano

Another complaint I have about ANGELS AND DEMONS, the movie....

In the beginning, when they're off to the Pantheon, a policeman says it's "the oldest Christian church in Rome."

Well, I hate to bust Dan Brown's bubble (not!) but this is a well-known fallacy. The Basilica of San Giovanno in Laterano (John Laterano) is the oldest Christian church in Rome, the first of Constantine's churches, built in the fourth century. It was followed by the Vatican (yes, it was second), San Clemente, San Paolo fuori le Mura, and then Maria Maggiore. There were a few other churches in there, but they're no longer extant. I guess you could argue that the Pantheon was the oldest building converted into a Christian church, but I think that's cheating - and so do the experts.

John Laterano has had a few make-overs, including a completely re-done Baroque exterior in the 18th century (it also got an obelisk, moved from the Circus Maximus, for its piazza - the biggest obelisk in Rome, in fact, Dan Brown). This church - and palace - is the Bishop of Rome's seat. When you step foot inside it's perimeter, you leave Rome and enter the Vatican, as the Bishop of Rome is the Vicar of Christ aka the Pope.

Of the churches mentioned above, Santa Maria Maggiore is the most well preserved (though it also got a new facade). To step inside this church is to see a fifth century basilica - just ignore the Conquistador's gold. I've heard said that there are a hundred churches in Rome dedicated to Mary alone, but this one is the biggest, the oldest, the Maggiore.

On a side note, I must wish my bestest friend, AL, a very happy birthday. For ten years - and three weeks in confined hotel rooms in Europe - she's been there for me, a constant joy and inspiration. I can't imagine an existence without her; life would be way too boring! I love you, hon!